One of the questions I'm most often asked is, "How is checkering done?"

Checkering is a pattern of diamonds created by the intersection of two sets of lines at a carefully predetermined angle. It is really that simple.

There are basically two types of checkering patterns, - point pattern and fleur de lis, which translates to 'flower of the lily'. The point patterns have the ends of each panel delineated by the diamonds themselves, while the fleur patterns are an 'enclosed' panel, with curved borders and the checkering filling the space within the borders.

I make a tracing of the forend on most of my work and then design the pattern on graph paper, then transfer the pattern directly to the wood. The complicated curves of the wrist area usually dictate that the pattern be layed out directly on the stock.

I then cut the straight lines along the top line of the forend and the bottom of the wrist, the underside of the grip area, the curve along the back of the grip area, and on a fleur pattern, all of the fleurs and all of the curves that define the panel. I do all this with a pocketknife, and use a veiner for the tight places.

I then use the pocketknife to cut the two master lines for the diamonds, from which all actual checkering lines will be cut one at a time. These master lines have to be as perfect as is humanly possible, as any wiggle or wander will be magnified exponentially with each succeeding line.

The lines are cut either by hand with a spacing tool, or with a power tool. I use both, as the job at hand dictates. After all lines are cut in, they must be deepened and refined, and all of this is done with the hand tools.

Most of my patterns are done with diamonds that are 3 1/2 times as long as they are wide, as this gives the ends of the point patterns a more pointed and much more attractive look than a more blunt diamond would. If you look at photographs of L.C. Smith and Model 21 Winchester shotguns from the past, which were done with a 2 1/2 to 1 ratio, you'll see what these blunt patterns look like. The one time I will use a diamond of 2 1/2 to 1 ratio is when doing the skeleton gripcaps in 28 or 32 line per inch, as we need a stronger, more durable diamond when going that fine. These are surrounded by a border, so you can’t even tell they aren't elongated diamonds.

This wouldn't be complete without a description of some of the tools used for checkering. There aren't many, just, (left to right) single line cutters (v-plow) in 60°, 75°, and 90° angle of cut, veiners in 60° and 90° cut, 2 line spacer tool, and mullered border tool, which makes a concave cut. I also use an electric tool to layout the checkering lines initially. And, of course, the pocket knife.

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